Louisiana Eats

In 1983, the Louisiana legislature named crawfish as the official state crustacean. In 2008, they proclaimed the Sazerac as New Orleans' official cocktail. And on June 1, 2024, Billy Nungesser, Lieutenant Governor of Louisiana, proclaimed Blue Plate Mayonnaise to be the official mayo of poor boy sandwiches. On this week's show, we explore some other essential poor boy ingredients. We begin with the story of the first poor boy loaf ever baked from the inventor's grandson and great-grandson, John and Jason Gendusa. The Gendusa family bakery has been inextricably tied to that famous New Orleans sandwich since 1929. Next, Sandy Whann of Leidenheimer Baking Company shares the story of his family's bakery which dates back to 1896. We also speak with his son William Whann, who is carrying on the family business. Finally, we have a taste of Chisesi Brothers and hear the delicious story of their 100-plus year-old family history from fifth generation Nicholas Chisesi and his octogenarian dad, Philip. For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

On February 5th of this year, Steve Himelfarb, a longtime fixture in New Orleans' food scene and a true Renaissance man, passed away at the age of 61 following a battle with cancer. Kind, passionate, and endlessly creative, Steve took on many different roles in his life. He was by turns an acclaimed sound engineer, door-to-door cake salesman, café owner, king cake pioneer, teacher, and all-around community treasure. He was also our dear friend and colleague. Steve joined Louisiana Eats as a producer in 2022, working on this show over the last several years with his wife, Becky Retz. His contributions behind the scenes have been vital to what we do here. Over the years, Steve actually appeared on Louisiana Eats several times. In 2021, we interviewed Steve and Becky about the legacy of their beloved Marigny mainstay, Cake Café, and their love letter to diners: The Cake Café Cookbook. In 2023, Steve discussed how his specialty king cakes became a fundraising tradition at the New Orleans Center for Creative Arts. On this week's show, we remember our friend by bringing you extended versions of these two conversations. We also speak with sound engineer and producer Lu Rojas, who shares stories of Steve's esteemed music career. For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

With a unique history reaching back centuries, Louisiana is a state that lends itself to storytelling. On this week's show, we're joined by two historians to get the true stories behind some common myths and misconceptions. And sandwiched between them, we speak with two authors of historical fiction whose books make our state's past come alive. We begin with journalist and food historian Lolis Eric Elie, who talks about the true origins of New Orleans' Creole food, and the often-overlooked African contributions. Next, we speak with Elisa Speranza, author of "The Italian Prisoner." Elisa was inspired to write her debut novel after hearing stories of Italian POWs housed in New Orleans during World War II. After Italy switched sides in 1943, these former enemies became part of the American war effort and the city's makeup. Then, legendary Louisiana storyteller Glen Pitre joins us. He reveals the role that food plays in his historical novel, "Advice for the Wicked,” which takes place in Southern Louisiana at the turn of the 20th century. Finally, we hear the surprising true story behind New Orleans' classic confection, the praline, from culinary historian Rien Fertel. For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

New Orleans began her love affair with coffee three centuries ago. Any local of a certain age can remember the grown-ups of their childhood spending hours around the kitchen table drinking a strong French roast blended with chicory. This week we sit down with a cup of coffee and some folks who can tell us the story of coffee in New Orleans. First, Patrick Brennan, of the famous Brennan restaurant clan, talks about leaving the family business to strike out on his own in the artisan coffee market. Patrick tells us about Congregation Coffee, his roasting business and Algiers Point neighborhood coffee shop. Next, we hear from Suzanne Stone and David Feldman, as we take a deep dive into their book, New Orleans Coffee: A Rich History. They tell the story of coffee in the Crescent City, which came to the forefront in the late 1700s. Finally, we chat with graphic artist Sharon Dunn Dinkins Dymond, who, in the 1970s, discovered a cache of 19th- and early 20th-century product labels that tell the tale of New Orleans’ early love affair with coffee. She reproduces the beautiful, chromolithographed labels on postcards and ceramic serving ware for her company, Fabled Labels. For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

This week, Louisiana Eats takes you to the Williams Research Center for the Historic New Orleans Collection's 2024 Food Forum, where host Poppy Tooker moderated a panel discussion that delved into the fascinating stories of three of the city's most enduring restaurants – all family-owned and -operated for generations. On the panel was Lisa Blount, representing Antoine's, the longest continuously operating family-owned restaurant in the nation. Lisa is marketing and menu development director of the 185-year-old eatery, as well as the wife of fifth-generation proprietor, Rick Blount. She tells us about the women and men who kept the business in operation through several generations and what she is doing now to preserve their legacy. Also part of the discussion was Ralph Brennan, third-generation owner of the French Quarter institution, Brennan's, as well as four other restaurants. Ralph explains what inspired him to keep Brennan's in business when it was on the verge of closing. He also describes the circumstances that led him to take over The Napoleon House, an even older restaurant institution in the Vieux Carré. While he made some necessary updates to the building, they were designed not to be seen by a customer base who would have balked at the idea of the restaurant changing in the slightest. Rounding out the panel was Executive Chef Edgar "Dook" Chase, IV, who carries on the legacy of his grandmother Chef Leah Chase, as the fourth-generation proprietor of the over 80-year-old Dooky Chase Restaurant. He tells us about how he's keeping his family's legacy alive while giving newer generations an opportunity to move forward. For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

New Orleans is one of the oldest cities in America, but its acclaimed cuisine is hardly stuck in the past. Today, the local food scene is bolder, more diverse, and more inventive than ever. That’s what food writer Beth D'Addono discovered when researching her latest publication, "City Eats: New Orleans." Offering an extensive overview of the local restaurant landscape, the book also provides over 50 recipes from the Big Easy's top chefs. Beth joins us to discuss this talented new guard of chefs and restaurateurs – many who found their footing during the pandemic. Then, we dig into two restaurants featured in Beth’s book. From Addis NOLA, we hear from Dr. Biruk Alemayehu and Prince Lobo, the mother-and-son team bringing their authentic Ethiopian dining experience to historic Bayou Road. That includes injera bread and honey wine that have been served in the Horn of Africa for thousands of years. Finally, we take a field trip to the kitchen of GW Fins, an upscale seafood restaurant in the French Quarter, where we learn about Chef Michael Nelson's innovative work with dry-aging fish. The result is an elevated dish that is denser, more tender, and more flavorful. For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

Home. That’s a hard word to define. Is home a place? A person? A sense of belonging? On this week's show, we speak with chefs who have traveled great distances, literally and figuratively, to discover their own sense of home. We begin with Alon Shaya. In his book, "Shaya: An Odyssey of Food, My Journey Back to Israel," the award-winning chef frankly and unabashedly tells his life's story. From a lonely childhood to the mean streets of Philadelphia where he was a feared teenage drug dealer, to the salvation and purpose he found in cooking, Alon tells all. We also speak with Chef David Slater, who heads Emeril Lagasse's culinary operation. After growing up in Toronto, Canada, David found his heart's home right here in Louisiana. For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

On this week's Louisiana Eats, we're traveling down south to Argentina! In November 2023, host Poppy Tooker made the long trek to Buenos Aires, where she discovered a cosmopolitan city that sometimes felt like Paris and sometimes seemed like Manhattan. We begin with a tour of the city's San Telmo neighborhood with American expat and food writer Allie Lazar. She takes us for empanadas served up by Don Beto at El Gauchito and to the famous San Telmo market. Then, we meet celebrity chef Narda Lepes. If you can imagine a food activist in the style of Chez Panisse's Alice Waters, combined with the hungry wanderlust of Anthony Bourdain – there you have Narda Lepes! Indisputably one of the top female chefs in Latin America, she is well known for her cookbooks; award-winning, long-running food and travel TV series; and flagship restaurant, Narda Comedor. And we sit down at the Bosch Palace with then United States Ambassador to Argentina Marc Stanley for a Texan's point of view on the food and life in Argentina. For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

From "Cardoons" to "Misbeliefs," "Huckabucks" to "Second Lines" – the Big Easy has a lingo all its own, built on generations of immigrants finding their way to the port of New Orleans, the French Quarter, and finally a life in this city. For centuries, Africans, Southeast Asians, Europeans, and Caribbean Islanders have worked to make a home here, resulting in the hodgepodge of culture New Orleans is today. On this week's show, we examine two immigrant groups who loom large in the story of the Crescent City. With begin with historian Justin Nystrom, who discusses the influence that Sicilian Americans have had on our city's foodways. Surprisingly, that influence didn't begin with the heavy influx of Sicilians who populated the city during the late 1880s, but with a first wave of Italian immigrants who arrived on our shores in the 1830s. Then, Liz Williams joins us with memories of her Sicilian grandmother, Nana Elisabetta, who arrived in the Crescent City at the age of 18. Liz's book, "Nana's Creole Italian Table," is filled with recipes and family lore. Finally, we sit down with Tulane History Professor Laura Kelley. Her book, "The Irish in New Orleans," tells the history of Irish immigrants in the Crescent City and how they shaped Louisiana culture in some unexpected ways. For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

In the late 1800s, industrialization carried the United States into a new era – one of great wealth and elaborate lifestyles for those at the top. It was frequent New Orleans visitor Mark Twain who coined the term the "Gilded Age," which would later be associated with this time of conspicuous consumption. This week, we take a look at the glorious food at the center of it all. First, we chat with Becky Diamond, author of "The Gilded Age Cookbook," who recounts the lavish menus and extravagant parties the uber-rich served up in the late 19th century. Her tome offers more than 75 sumptuous recipes of the period, from salmon en papillote to dainty tea sandwiches, accompanied by full-color photographs of the dishes. Then, we sit down for an in-depth interview with actor and musician Michael Cerveris. The two-time Tony Award winner knows what it's like to live among the outrageous wealth and opulence of late-19th-century America, having played the valet Watson in the television series The Gilded Age. But that HBO drama is a late entry on Michael's long performing résumé. He's also had an impressive run on stage, in both musicals and straight plays. Locals may know Michael from his role in the post-Katrina New Orleans TV series Treme, or as co-founder of the popular Americana band Loose Cattle. Or, maybe, as the guy who lives down the street. Michael regales us with stories of his fascinating career and explains why he made the decision to call New Orleans home. For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

Whether it's through television, books, or blogs – Louisiana's food culture is reaching audiences far beyond our borders. On this week's show, we meet three unofficial ambassadors who represent our state and cuisine on the world stage. We begin with Chef Isaac Toups of Toups' Meatery in New Orleans' Mid City neighborhood. In 2016, we discovered just how much the camera loved Isaac when he was voted fan favorite on Bravo Network's "Top Chef." In the years since, Isaac has successfully promoted Cajun cuisine and culture thanks to his popular cookbook, "Chasing the Gator." George Graham has called Acadiana home his entire life and has made it his mission to preserve and promote Cajun and Creole culture through stories and recipes. George shares his obsession through his nationally recognized blog and book, "Acadiana Table: Cajun and Creole Home Cooking from the Heart of Louisiana." Finally, Chef Kevin Belton tells of his journey from a child growing up in New Orleans to PBS cooking show host – a job that has him introducing the cuisine of the Bayou State to countless foodies. For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

While most of the country makes New Year's resolutions that kick in right after January 1st, in Louisiana, there tends to be a slight postponement. That's because Carnival Season, a time of indulgence, kicks off on January 6th with the astounding king cake eating and cocktail drinking that comes with it. So, our resolutions about healthy living and sobriety tend to wait until Ash Wednesday – the day after Mardi Gras. This week, we hear from experts about the merits of clean living. Since she first opened her practice, Dr. Erika Siegel has extolled the virtues of eating the right foods as the foundation of good health. Across a decade and a half, the naturopathic physician collected all of her sage advice and put it into a book, "The Nourish Me Kitchen." The first half of the two-volume set offers easily digestible recommendations from stocking a healthy pantry to getting a good night's sleep. The second half features more than 300 recipes for creating healthy and delicious meals. Dr. Siegel joins us in the studio to discuss her book and share some practical advice on achieving and maintaining optimal health. Then, two of the Big Easy's native sons, Chris Copeland and Dan Forman tell us about how their NOLA Detox and Recovery Center incorporates New Orleans-style hospitality and food to help clients overcome addiction. For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

In many cultures across the globe, food is closely intertwined with spirituality and religion. The Passover seder celebrates the exodus of the Jewish people from slavery in Egypt. The Muslim feast of Eid al-Fitr marks the end of a month-long fast, with families gathering for a large celebratory meal. And the Christian gospels contain stories of Jesus breaking bread, multiplying loaves and fishes, and turning water into wine. On this week’s show, we meditate on the elemental link between food and faith. We begin with Jody Eddy. The peripatetic author spent two years visiting monasteries, temples, and other spiritual communities – from Minnesota to Morocco, Ireland to Japan – discovering the rich culinary rituals of each group. She compiled her experiences in Elysian Kitchens: Recipes Inspired by the Traditions and Tastes of the World's Sacred Spaces, a fascinating cookbook full of traditional recipes and the stories of their spiritual roots. Then, the monks of the Drepung Gomang Monastery are back in New Orleans as part of their Sacred Arts Tour. The last time the Buddhist monks were in town, Louisiana Eats joined them in the kitchen as they prepared a traditional Tibetan meal. We give you a taste of that extraordinary evening. For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

Chinese cooking has been a part of the American dining scene since the mid-1800s and remains an integral aspect of the industry today. This week, we take an in-depth look at the Chinese restaurant tradition from a variety of perspectives. For decades, the parking lot was always full at the little red building just across the parish line from New Orleans. Inside, a packed house of diners could be found happily munching on dim sum and other Cantonese dishes at Royal China Restaurant. In 2021, after forty-plus years in business, Shirley Lee and her husband Chef Tang Lee decided to retire. But now they are back with their new restaurant, Miss Shirley's on Magazine Street in Uptown New Orleans. That hostess with the mostest and her daughter who helps run the business, Carling Lee, visited our studio to tell us how restaurateurs-turned-retirees turned restaurateurs again. Next, we talk to Curtis Chin, who came of age in Detroit at a Chinese restaurant run by multiple generations of his family. Like many immigrant families, Curtis' parents worked long, hard hours running their business with time for little else. But they made sure that their children were exposed to the wider world and all it had to offer. Curtis reflects on the lessons he took from that childhood experience in his memoir, Everything I Learned, I Learned in a Chinese Restaurant. Finally, Chef Andrew Lu joins us. Having grown up in Lafayette, the child of immigrants from China, Andrew is truly an Asian Cajun. And nowhere is that more apparent than in the name of his popular pop-up restaurant – Get Your Mom and Dim Sum. For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

Mardi Gras is just around the corner. That means king cake lovers only have a matter of days remaining to enjoy a slice of the beloved Carnival treat before Lent begins. But how do you pick the right king cake for you? With hundreds of varieties to choose from, it can be a daunting task. For this week's show, we've reached out to some king cake experts for help. We begin with Sami Messerle, also known as Instagram's Krewe du King Cake. Sami discusses her undying love of the official Mardi Gras pastry and fills us in on what's new and interesting this season. Next, we speak with Matt Haines, author of The Big Book of King Cake – a weighty tome that is virtually the bible on the seasonal topic. Matt uncovered amazing historical facts and chronicled the lives and cakes of 75 bakers while writing his coffee table book. Finally, we meet Patrick Bordnick. Like Pavlov's dog before them, Patrick's canine companions have been conditioned to salivate whenever they encounter king cake. For nearly every day of the Mardi Gras season, Patrick and his pups sample a new cake and rate it. Patrick then posts their conclusions on his Instagram page, where the whole family enjoys a following. For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

No matter where you live in Louisiana, it's Mardi Gras time! Carnival is when we all get to suspend our disbelief, don a mask, do or be something outrageous. This week, we explore the many ways people celebrate the season. First, we hear from Abby Roniger, author of the colorful new children's book, Carnival Time in My Mind, which depicts the joy and excitement of being a kid at Mardi Gras. The book will bring back memories for anyone lucky enough to have grown up in New Orleans and is a lovely introduction to the celebration for kids everywhere. Then, author and photographer Sally Asher takes a break from her professional endeavors to talk about the various ways she celebrates Carnival – including roller skating down St. Charles Avenue, riding high atop a parade float, and dancing in the street. More importantly, she shares her very specific dining and drinking preferences during each of the season's big events. And Louisiana cultural scholar John LaFleur joins us to talk about the Courir de Mardi Gras, a ritual that takes place in rural Creole and Cajun parishes. For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

Since reopening with much fanfare in 2015, New Orleans' St. Roch Market has experienced ups and downs, but the city's second oldest city market is still standing. Since 2015, St. Roch has functioned as a culinary incubator for food professional wannabes – and what a bunch of delicious incubation is happening there now! On this week's show, we speak with the market's new director, longtime vendor Kevin Pedeaux, and learn why that bustling spot on St. Claude is the place to be these days. We then go stall by stall to meet the vendors – the St. Roch stars who are cooking up some of the most diverse offerings to be found under one single roof today. Next, we hear from one of St. Roch Market's biggest success stories. Chef Charly Pierre began creating delicious Haitian dishes based on the traditional street foods that abound in his ancestral homeland. Charly's career has since skyrocketed. He's been featured on a number of national cooking competition shows, and garnered accolades from the likes of Zagat, Eater, and the James Beard Foundation. These days, Charly can be found in the kitchen of his own Basin Street restaurant, Fritai. For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

On Sunday, February 9th, over 100,000 people are expected to pack into New Orleans for Super Bowl LIX. This will mark the 11th Super Bowl in the city, tying Miami for most in NFL history. And there's a good reason the big game keeps coming back to the Big Easy: our food and hospitality are second to none. On this week's show, we celebrate iconic Louisiana foods that those swarms of sports fans will be seeking out during their stay. We kick off with Louisiana Fish Fry. Remember the chicken sandwich wars that pitted fast-food chains against each other? Last year, the Louisiana Fried Chicken Sandwich Challenge set out to show that the best chicken sandwich in America was actually made in a home cook's kitchen. We learn about the national contest and meet champion Mindea Pituk, who won a trip to the Superdome on Super Bowl Sunday. Then, we've got a game of two halves – of bread! Burke Bischoff's paperback Po'Boy, tells the story of the classic New Orleans poor boy sandwich – its delicious and endless varieties, the real secret of the dish, and what it has to do with a 1929 streetcar strike. Next, we pass the ball to Samantha Stein and Dan Trahant of Reily Foods, the company behind Blue Plate Mayonnaise. We learn how they set out to create a new twist on two southern sauces – tartar and cocktail. Finally, we sit down with a big game player in the world of flavor. Pepper Baumer is the third-generation producer of local and national favorite, Crystal Hot Sauce. In 2023, the Baumer family celebrated a century of business here in Louisiana. For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

Folks are familiar with New Orleans' home-grown Creole and Cajun cuisines. But the Crescent City is also the place to taste delicious flavors from many cultures. This week, we pay tribute to a trio of chefs bringing Latin American fare to local tables. First, we talk to Ana Castro. Down in New Orleans' Bywater neighborhood, this much-lauded young chef is drawing crowds to her modern Mexican restaurant Acamaya. Also in Bywater, Chef Melissa Araujo's Alma Café offers a menu of Honduran specialties and, now, a second location in Mid-City. Finally, we hear from Carlos Sanchez, owner of Tournesol Café and Bakery, who spends his days in downtown Covington creating the delicious breads and pastries of his native El Salvador. For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.

Many of us toy with the idea of committing our life stories to pen and paper. If you're a regular listener to Louisiana Eats, or simply another food obsessed Louisianan, odds are your biography may well take the form of food memoir. This week, we hear from a trio of writers who have been there and done that. First, we catch up with Sara Roahen. Her award-winning memoir, Gumbo Tales: Finding My Place at the New Orleans Table, chronicles her adjustment to life in the Big Easy. But Sarah is also a teacher of memoir writing and has penned a guide for aspiring authors. She shares some tips from her book, How to Begin Writing Your Life Stories: Putting Memories on the Page. Next, author Karen Katz gives us backstage access to the wild world of food TV. She writes about her adventures as Emeril Lagasse's cooking show producer in her memoir, Getting Sauced: How I Learned Everything I Know About Food From Working in TV. Finally, we speak with stand-up comic and actor Dan Ahdoot. In his debut memoir, Undercooked: How I Let Food Become My Life Navigator and How Maybe That's a Dumb Way to Live, Dan examines his emotional relationship with food starting from childhood, and provides both an honest and comedic look at where that has gotten him. For more of all things Louisiana Eats, be sure to visit us at PoppyTooker.com.